While Hong Kong has seen momentous changes since the handover in 1997, the blend of British and Chinese cultures is ingrained in the city’s DNA. The local identity is neither British nor Chinese, difficult to substitute or erase, and distinctively of its place.

Few things symbolise Hong Kong’s fusion of flavours more than the local diners known as cha chaan tengs, or “tea restaurants”. These humble cafés serve a mix of western imports — French toast is popular — alongside Chinese dishes such as salted fish and chicken fried rice, and a wide array of local inventions combining the two that you would be hard pressed to find anywhere else, such as the ubiquitous macaroni and ham soup. They are also characterised by their efficient, no-frills service and frenetic, chaotic atmosphere — typical attributes of Hong Kong life, where every minute is precious and counted.

The predecessor of the cha chaan teng is the bing sutt, or ice room. Originally from Guangzhou in the 1880s, they were places to enjoy chilled refreshments, whose increased popularity is usually attributed to the influx of western expats. The cha chaan teng was a product of that growing demand, offering an affordable alternative to the more opulent cuisine of the British colonial rulers. Today, the cha chaan teng is where blue-collar workers share tables with bankers and lawyers. Its fare has become what a full English is in England or a hamburger in the US: comfort food for the masses.