In many parts of China, people like to start a meal with cool, salady appetisers rather than the deep-fried snacks typically offered in Chinese restaurants abroad.

In Beijing, you might be offered a bracing salad of Chinese cabbage in a mustardy sauce or some cold, spiced beef. The Shanghainese adore their drunken chicken and lotus root stuffed with sticky rice, while in Hangzhou a local favourite is Buddhist vegetarian “roast goose”, a clever trompe l’oeil made from thin, layered sheets of tofu.

In Sichuan, as you’d expect, a spread of starters usually features the twin hallmarks of the local cuisine: chilli and Sichuan pepper. You might be served cold spiced meats with a dip of ground spices, chewy semi-dried beef in a slick of chilli oil or broad beans tossed in a spicy dressing.