France seems to hog an even higher proportion of recommendations here than it did for last week’s reds – perhaps not surprisingly in view of so many stunning wines from Alsace, the Loire – and Burgundy. It is worth remembering that, above ￡10 or so a bottle, smaller, apparently more upmarket merchants can often offer better value than the mass-market retailers – though top marks to M&S for sourcing in strange-but-satisfying places.
Verus Furmint 2011 Stajerska Slovenija
Tokaj’s most important grape but grown in western Slovenia not Hungary. Broad, spicy and pretty on the palate but convincingly tense with clean, fresh fruit. Tart on the finish but none the worse for it. 13%
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