Hong Kong is a city close to my heart and even closer to my stomach. Is it because I am Cantonese and think that our cooking is simply the best? Well, a recent visit to Hong Kong sought to confirm exactly that. With the exception of Nha Trang, an extraordinary Vietnamese place, all the restaurants I ate in served the most delicious Cantonese fare in jam-packed restaurants filled with families and friends. And Hong Kong, known in the past for surly service, now has friendly and efficient waiters anticipating your every need.

We began at Fu Sing Shark Fin Seafood Restaurant, a brash old Cantonese family favourite. (We did not eat shark fin, despite the name of the restaurant.) Everyone comes here for BBQ pork, which melts in your mouth. The suckling pig was also outstanding. Fried rice in fu sing style was a dish so tasty that we continued to eat it despite being quite full. Finally, don't miss the crispy twists with honey. These are delicate, thin pieces of fresh wonton skins, skilfully fried and then drizzled with a light coating of honey syrup.

Our next stop was Fan Tang: it means dining room in Cantonese and appears almost like a private club. There is no sign on the door and you ring a bell to get in. The interiors have the cosy look of a Shanghai club fitted out with the usual Chinese glitter and gold trimming. Only recently opened, it is already a hangout for Hong Kong film and TV stars.