In the 1990s, tomato fields covered more than 60,000 acres of Florida, with hundreds of bustling family farms producing the fruit. Today, less than half of that land is in cultivation, and growers point the finger at one country: Mexico.

In July, President Donald Trump sided with Florida farmers, imposing a 17 per cent anti-dumping duty on Mexican tomatoes and accusing producers of selling at less than the cost of production. US growers see the levy, which took effect in July and is separate from broader trade tariff negotiations, as a lifeline for their declining industry.

“It was a shock to see the Trump administration willing to stand up and give us what we thought we were due,” said Bob Spencer, president of West Coast Tomato in Florida. “It’s happiness but a tinge of sadness, thinking about the ones that haven’t been able to survive.”