It is a picture that has probably been seen around the world. A winding queue of climbers and their guides apparently shuffling towards the summit of the highest mountain in the world. The unprecedented traffic jam has raised important questions about the nature of tourism around Mount Everest. The image is even more jarring when you consider the news that spring 2019 will be the deadliest climbing season in recent history: so far 11 climbers have died on the mountain. When you look at the picture and think about those numbers, you have to wonder if a selfie on the summit is worth it.

In April 2019, I had a similar thought while slowly losing control of my lungs and then my consciousness in Lobuche on the Everest base camp trail. For every person attempting the 8,848m summit there are thousands further below braving frigid temperatures to make it to EBC. Even at a modest 5,380m, the EBC trek is challenging, as the bare rocky surface of the surrounding mountains intensifies the cold and snow, thinning out the air much faster than in mountains of a similar height. I had expected a relaxed 21-day trek to a beautiful view. Instead, half way in and after a week of powering up and down the trail to make up for a lost travel day, I was gasping for air, losing consciousness and reciting the alphabet backwards to keep my mind awake.

My experience in Lobuche brought me into contact with both the beautiful and the ugly side of climbing season in the Khumbu Himalaya region. The political economy of the region is complex for reasons beyond simple numbers.