The arrival of year 5774 was celebrated in Shanghai, as in Jewish communities all over the world, with the tones of a cantor reciting Rosh Hashana prayers in a synagogue filled with people honouring one of the world’s oldest religions. Just like everywhere, except that the state owns the synagogue and the Communist party decides when Jews can worship there, ie not often.

Outside the main gate of the leafy compound in which the Ohel Rachel synagogue is located, a sign says “Shanghai Afforestation Commission” – although, thankfully, there is no indication that the building is used to store agricultural equipment between Jewish high holidays. But the Shanghai Education Administration, which actually owns the building, limits the days on which it does open for worship to a handful. The rest of the time, the city’s best preserved symbol of Judaism is closed both to the public and to the observant.

But don’t worry, it’s not really personal: China is far less anti-Semitic than just plain anti-religious. Chinese Christians have it far worse.