The artillery battery in a hillside on the small Taiwanese island of Matsu is a remnant from the decades when the island chain was part of a fortified frontline between Taiwan and China. A slogan chiselled into the rock outside the shelter still reminds soldiers to watch for the enemy.
Soon, tracking the Chinese incomers will only require watching commercial aircraft land on a runway down the hill.
Beijing retains its claims to Taiwan and continues investing in missiles to defeat Taipei if the self-governing nation were to ever declare independence. Yet, negotiations between the two sides have brought tensions to a historic low.
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