For old China hands, it would seem improbable to be sitting on a sweeping terrace overlooking Beijing's Tiananmen Square, eating a freshly-shucked Tasmanian oyster and sipping a New Zealand sauvignon blanc. But on a recent balmy evening, diners were doing just that at Capital M, one of the newest, and most stylish, additions to Beijing's rapidly evolving restaurant scene.

The creative food and striking interior design at Capital M reflect both contemporary good taste and a certain cheeky flair – evident in the colourful, river-themed mural running the length of the restaurant, the bold, geometric-design parquet floors, stand-alone fireplaces and elegant table and glassware.

The food lives up to menu descriptions that display both a sense of fun and serious gastronomic focus, such as “pigeon, twice cooked so oh juicy & crispy, with boudin noir and harissa”, and “the mayor of Nice's slowly braised oxtail”. Imaginative cocktails, such as Shanghai Mule, provide a local twist on old favourites, while the wine list is well-balanced in both geographic and varietal terms.