Stadtwirt is the sort of traditional Viennese beisl where wood creaks, the curtains are worn but charming and the staff know much of the clientele by name. The tavern in central Vienna also belongs to the family of one of Sebastian Kurz’s assistants, which may explain why the former Austrian chancellor has picked it.

I arrive a few minutes early on a warm autumn day. Europe’s city of music and spies is bustling but the restaurant is only half full, with low conversation rustling across the cosy interior. I am quickly led to what appears to be the choice seat, a corner table set apart from others, with red cushions and gold curtains.

Moments later, Kurz, as smooth as ever and dressed in a navy suit, strides in. He is first curious why the FT covers Austria from Switzerland (I am based in Zurich). I admit most of my time is taken up by writing about Switzerland.